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🥾 | Boat King Michihiko Ueki x Free Climber Miwa Ohba Now available on YouTube official channel


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Boat King Michihiko Ueki x Free Climber Miwa Ohba Now available on YouTube official channel

 
If you write the contents roughly
Two people, "Boat King" Ueki, who is delivering the front and back parts, and Oba, who has been active in the topic "Sport Climbing", which has been attracting attention at the Tokyo Olympics such as the birth of a Japanese medalist, are enthusiastically talking.
 

Michihiko Ueki, a boat race ambassador, invites top runners from various fields to talk with each other on YouTube. → Continue reading

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West Japan Sports (West Sports) is the first sports newspaper published in Kyushu in 1955.
Lots of detailed information about Fukuoka Softbank Hawks that can only be read in "West Sports"!
In addition to professional baseball and high school baseball, J-League information of Kyushu teams such as Sagan Tosu, V. Farren Nagasaki, Avispa Fukuoka and news of basketball, rugby, HKT48, bicycle races, boat information etc. will be distributed as needed.


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Sports climbing

Sports climbing(British: sport climbing) Is based on the climbing technique used in rock climbing (rock climbing).CompetitionGeneric term[1].

In a broad sense, artificial wall climbing, which is conducted as training to participate in sports climbing competitions, is also called sports climbing (even if there are no opponents on the spot and the competition format is not adopted).

Sports climbing is basicallyArtificial wallParticipants compete for superiority and inferiority of skill and time under solid rulesCompetitionBecause it is done asFree climbingThere are many parts that are different from the concept, and even if both are climbing, they are different.

The following are some of the events in international sports climbing competitions.[1].

Artificial walls called "climbing walls" and climbing holds (en: Climbing hold) And other equipment, and securing devices,Harness,rope,Carabiner, Quick draw (quickdraw, Short ropes with carabiner on both ends) and other equipment, athletes compete for climbing skills[1].

The international governing bodyInternational Federation of Sport Climbing International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), And the governing body in Japan is a public interest incorporated associationJapan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing AssociationJapan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association (JMSCA.. Renamed from Japan Mountaineering Association in 2017)[1].

History

Of sports climbing competitionsInternational FederationIs IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing), And IFSC has established strict competition rules.It was the Japan Mountaineering Association (later) that joined IFSC in Japan.Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association).

The IFSC-led World Cup began in 1988.Similarly, the IFSC-led world championship began in 1991.

With the participation of more than 2007 countries in the 50 World Championships in Spain, sports climbing has begun to become a major sport internationally.

August 2007, 12,International Olympic CommitteeThe (IOC) held a board meeting in Lausanne (Switzerland) to tentatively approve the International Federation of Sport Climbing.It was later approved and sports climbing became one of the IOC's recognized sports.[2]..After that, the situation where it was not adopted for the official Olympic competition continued,2020 Tokyo OlympicsIt will be adopted as an additional event of the host city proposal in Japan, and a compound event of lead bouldering speed will be implemented.

In Japan, as a mountain competition of the National Sports Festival (National Athletic Meet) since 2008BoulderingThe competition has joined the official event.The Japanese National Athletic Meet was held as a compound competition in which two people formed one team and the teams competed in the second type of lead and bouldering.[1].

The three events held in the official competitions managed by IFSC are lead, bouldering, and speed, but in Japan, speed competitions have not been held much in the past.Speed ​​events are very popular in the world as well as other events, but for some reason the spread of speed events has been delayed in Japan and lack of experience, resulting in a weakness for Japanese players to compete in international competitions. ..However, as the sports climbing compound event will be held as a competition for the 3 Tokyo Olympics, Japanese athletes are also promoting speed competitions.

Competition

For now the English version en: Climbing competition checking ...

The following are IFSC-approved international competitions.

Japanese players are regulars in the finals of international competitions.It has become commonplace for multiple Japanese to win the championship or be listed as top prize winners.

When free climbing is performed as a competition, participants compete in artificial rocks to compete fairly, and in lead and bouldering, new tasks are set for each competition for the first time (on site) It is normal to compete by climbing on a try, but in the lead qualifying, it may be a competition (2 routes) when there are many participants.In addition, although the route may be set for each tournament in terms of speed, IFSC has set a standard route, and tournaments using this are subject to world record certification.

In Japan, climbing officials briefly describe the climbing competition as "competitionIs often called. (In addition, competition means "competition" in English. コ ン ペ テ ィ シ ョ ンIs an expression shortened to the Japanese style, and is widely used to refer to sports competitions, not limited to climbing. )

2020 Tokyo OlympicsBut it is adopted as a competition event (→Sports climbing competition for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics).

Rules

With regard to lead climbing, the situation where the rules are changed significantly every year as initially seen has not occurred in recent years, and it can be said that the rules have been almost finalized by 2007.ボルダリング競技についても、IFSCワールドカップや世界選手権といったクラスの大会ともなるとルールの改訂は頻繁には行われないようになってきていたRegarding bouldering competitions, the rules have become less frequent when it comes to class competitions such as the IFSC World Cup and World Championships.[3]..ただし、2008年に制定されたルール(2008-09年に適用)ではリードもボルダリングも計時法などに変更点があったHowever, in the rules established in XNUMX (applied in XNUMX-XNUMX), there were changes in the timekeeping method for both lead and bouldering.[4].

Lead event

A competition to climb an overhanging wall with a height of 12 m or more while being secured by a rope, which is a lifeline.It consists of three rounds: qualifying, semi-final (capacity 26 people), and final (capacity 8 people).選手は各ラウンドにおいて3本のルートを1度だけオンサイトでトライ(アテンプト)するAthletes try (attempt) one route only once in each round[5]..アテンプト中たった一度でも墜落したり反則行為があったりした場合や制限時間を超過した場合にはその時点で競技中止となり、それまでに達した最高到達点がその選手の成績となるIf there is a crash, an offense, or if the time limit is exceeded even once during the attempt, the competition will be canceled at that point, and the highest point reached so far will be the result of the athlete.[6]..It is a competition that uses the head and body, where it is necessary to determine where to squeeze the power to the limit within a few minutes of the competition, where to let it flow lightly, and where to rest without advancing.

Lead climbing risk

  • When it crashes, the old bolt breaks and it becomes a big crash.
  • Fearfully, he used a bolt hanger to hold, and just then crashed, and the weight was applied to his finger, injuring his finger.There is also the fear of cutting at worst.
  • The protruding part of the embedded anchor interferes with the hanger and carabiner, and the principle of leverage works, the carabiner breaks, and a big crash occurs.
  • Clip it to the lying hanger, then the climber moves the carabiner (quickdraw) and falls off the hanger.
  • There is also a so-called "second pin far away" route, where if you fail to clip to the second bolt and fall, it will fall to the ground even if it is not "hand-rolled".

Bouldering event

Height within about 5m[7]Try a short task without a rope.For safety, the floor is covered with thick mats.リード種目と同様に予選・準決勝(定員20名)・決勝(定員6名)の3ラウンド制であるが、大きく異なるのは、各ラウンドの課題(ボルダー)数が複数(予選5課題、準決勝および決勝4課題)であることと、一つの課題で墜落しても制限時間内(予選5分、準決勝5分、決勝4分)ならまたやり直せる点であるSimilar to the lead event, it is a three-round system of qualifying, semi-final (capacity XNUMX people), and final (capacity XNUMX people), but the major difference is that there are multiple tasks (boulders) in each round (XNUMX qualifying tasks, semi-final and It is a point that it is (XNUMX finals) and that even if it crashes in one task, it can be redone within the time limit (XNUMX minutes in qualifying, XNUMX minutes in semi-final, XNUMX minutes in final).[8]..Athletes try each task in turn and compete to see if they can climb within the time limit.成績は、基本的にはできるだけ多くの課題を、できるだけ少ないアテンプトGrades are basically as many tasks as possible and as few attempts as possible.[9]The winner is the one who climbs by number.To be precise, this "climbing" means "complete climbing" in which the final hold of each task is held with both hands and the referee's "OK" call is received.[10]There are two criteria, "hold bonus points", which holds the key hold in the middle.Specifically, the grade judgment is "the winner is the one who completes the most tasks" → "if it is tied, the winner is the one who required less total attempts to complete the climb" → "if there is still a tie" For example, the winner was the one who held the bonus points in more tasks, and the winner was the one who had the least total number of attempts to hold the bonus points if the points were still tied.
Due to the rule revision in 2018, the name of the bonus will be changed to "Zone", and the criteria for judging the results will be compared in the order of the number of completed climbs → the number of zone acquisitions → the total number of attempts to complete climbs → the total number of attempts to acquire zones. It was changed to the method of deciding the ranking.
From the beginning to the end, it is a series of tough movements, and there are many issues that require more physical ability, skill, and power than the lead event.However, there are some puzzle-like tasks that make it difficult to understand the movement itself, and it is similar to the lead event in that it uses not only power but also the head.
Bouldering competitions in Japan may be held under a wider variety of venue conditions than those of lead climbing competitions, and unique rules other than the IFSC rules are often adopted at the convenience of the venue.

Speed ​​event

Compete for how quickly you can run up the wall of predetermined conditions.The height and inclination of the wall, the type and position of the hold, and the angle are unified, and the conditions are the same even if the tournament changes, so unlike the other two types, there is a world record.During the competition, athletes will wear a rope connected to a safety device (auto belay machine) to ensure safety.In the qualifying, the two prepared routes will be tried once each to measure the time, and 2 people will advance to the final in the order of the earliest time.The final will be a competitive tournament, where players with high and low qualifying rankings such as 2st and 1th, 16nd and 1th will compete in the first round, and the one who finishes earlier will advance to the next round.If you commit a false start (flying), you will be disqualified at that point, and in the case of a final tournament, your opponent will win.

Complex event

Perform the above 3 events and compete for the total points.Qualifying will be held and the top 6 players will advance to the final.Regarding the speed event, the qualifying will be decided by measuring the time twice, but the final will be held in a match format of two people, and the one with the fastest time among each winner and loser will be added. The semi-finals will be held by four people, and the ranking will be decided after the final and third place playoff.The overall ranking is determined by the points calculated by multiplying the rankings of the third category in both the qualifying and the final, and the player with the smaller points is ranked higher.Since the points are calculated by multiplication, the players who give outstanding results in a specific event are more likely to be ranked higher than the players who leave a well-balanced result in the third event.

Domestic tournament

Japan Cup (JMSCA (JMSCA) in JapanJapan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association) Sponsored.Lead and Bouldering), Japan Championship (JFA (JFA)Japan Free Climbing Association) Sponsored.There are prominent competitions such as Reed) and B-Session (annual bouldering tour), andNational Athletic MeetAs a competitionMountain competition eventFree climbing is adopted as a part of[11](However, at the National Sports Festival, we have a team system with two people as one team, and we have a unique competition system).なお、2年度までは、JFAがジャパンツアーの形で全国を転戦するツアー大会を行うことにより国内競技会の黎明期を支えてきたが、現在ではその役目を終えたとして終了しているUntil 1, the JFA supported the dawn of domestic competitions by holding tour tournaments that nationwide in the form of Japan tours, but now it has ended as it has finished its role.[12]..Currently, major competitions such as the Japan Cup, Japan Championships, B-Session, and National Athletic Meet, and unique competitions held independently by each gym and local organization make up the Japanese competition world.

International competition

As international competitions, the World Cup and World Championships managed by IFSC are prestigious competitions. The former, which started in 1988, conducts about 4 to 10 races every year in the form of a battle around the world centered on Europe, and determines the annual ranking.The latter began in 1991 and has been held every two years (odd-numbered years, but even-numbered years since 2).

Not all World Cup tournaments have lead, bouldering, and speed events (sometimes the first event).[13]However, all events are held at the World Championships.

The World Cup tournament first arrived in Japan in 1991 (Tokyo-National Yoyogi StadiumOutdoor special wall), this was the first World Cup in Asia.また翌年にもAlso in the next yearKobe CityPort Island OfWorld Memorial HallThe tournament was held in (Asia's first indoor world tournament).しかしその後2001年のBut then in XNUMXMalaysia-Kuala LumpurNearly 10 years before the suburban tournament, the World Cup was never held in Asia.近年ではin recent yearsChugokuIt has become common for there to be one or two competitions in Asia each year, such as being held every year, and in 1,2, the competition was held in Japan for the first time in 2007 years (lead event).Saitama-Kazo CityKazo Gymnasium). From April 2009th to 4th, 11, the World Cup of bouldering events was held at the same Kazo Gymnasium.

In October 2011ChibaInzai CityThe World Cup for the lead event was planned at the Matsuyamashita Park General Gymnasium, but it occurred in March of the same year.Fukushima Daiichi Nuclear Power Plant AccidentDue to the influence of, it became difficult for overseas players to come to Japan and it was canceled[14]..The following year, it was held at Matsuyamashita Park General Gymnasium from October 2012 to 10, 27.

The annual ranking of the World Cup is the sum of the scores given by the ranking in each tournament (in the case of 5 or more races a year, the maximum number of tournaments to be added for each player is 1 less than the total number of races held). In descending order of.Also, in recent years, the "World Ranking" has been announced, which introduces the concept of "giving a greater weight to the points earned in a tournament where strong players gather."

In Japan, boysHirayama Yuji(Hiroshi Hirayama) is the annual champion of the World Cup lead competition in 1998 and 2000.[15],Sachi AmmaIs the 2012 World Cup Lead Men's Annual Champion[16], Women'sHiroyo NoguchiIs the 2008 and 2009 World Cup Comprehensive (Composite) Women's Annual Champion[17], 2009 and 2010 Bouldering World Cup Women's Annual Champion[18], Bouldering competition women's world ranking annual champion of the same year[19]Is shining.

(Speed ​​event not written)

The annual World Cup (lead, bouldering and overall) champions are:Ranking information by IFSCreference):

Year \ eventLead girlsLead boysBouldering girlsBouldering boysSpeed ​​girlsSpeed ​​boysComprehensive girlsComprehensive boys
1989 French flagNanette RevoBritish flagSimon Nadin------------
1990 French flagIsabel PatissierFrench flagFrançois Legrand------------
1991 French flagIsabel PatissierFrench flagFrançois Legrand------------
1992 United States flagRobin ArvesfieldFrench flagFrançois Legrand------------
1993 United States flagRobin ArvesfieldFrench flagFrançois Legrand------------
1994 United States flagRobin ArvesfieldFrench flagFrançois Lombard------------
1995 United States flagRobin ArvesfieldFrench flagFrançois Petit------------
1996 French flagRive SanzoFrench flagArnold Petit------------
1997 Belgian flagMuriel SarkanyFrench flagFrançois Legrand------------
1998 French flagRive SanzoJapanese flagHirayama YujiFrench flagRive SanzoRussian flagSalavat Rafmetov--------
1999 Belgian flagMuriel SarkanyFrench flagFrançois PetitFrench flagStephanie BodeItalian flagChristian Colle--------
2000 French flagRive SanzoJapanese flagHirayama YujiFrench flagSandrin LeveSpanish flagPedro Pons--------
2001 Belgian flagMuriel SarkanyFrench flagAlex ShaboFrench flagSandrin LeveFrench flagJerome Mayer--------
2002 Belgian flagMuriel SarkanyFrench flagAlex ShaboUkrainian flagNatalia PerlovaItalian flagChristian Colle--------
2003 Belgian flagMuriel SarkanyFrench flagAlex ShaboFrench flagSandrin LeveFrench flagJerome Mayer--------
2004 Austrian flagAngela IterCzech flagThomas MurazekFrench flagSandrin LeveFrench flagDaniel du Lac--------
2005 Austrian flagAngela IterItalian flagFlavio CrespiFrench flagSandrin LeveAustrian flagKillian Fish Huber--------
2006 Austrian flagAngela IterSpanish flagPachi Usobiaga RakunsaRussian flagOlga BibikFrench flagJerome Mayer--------
2007 Flag of SloveniaMaya VidmarSpanish flagPachi Usobiaga RakunsaFrench flagJuliet DanionAustrian flagKillian Fish Huber--------
2008 Austrian flagJohanna ErnstDutch flagJorg FerhofenAustrian flagAnna StoAustrian flagKillian Fish Huber----Japanese flagHiroyo NoguchiAustrian flagDavid Lama
2009 Austrian flagJohanna ErnstCzech flagAdam OndraJapanese flagHiroyo NoguchiAustrian flagKillian Fish Huber----Japanese flagHiroyo NoguchiCzech flagAdam Ondra
2010 Republic of Korea flagKim JainSpanish flagRamon JulianJapanese flagHiroyo NoguchiCzech flagAdam Ondra----Republic of Korea flagKim JainCzech flagAdam Ondra
2011 Flag of SloveniaMina MalkovichAustrian flagJacob SchubertAustrian flagAnna StoAustrian flagKillian Fish Huber----Flag of SloveniaMina MalkovichAustrian flagJacob Schubert
2012 Flag of SloveniaMina MalkovichJapanese flagSachi AmmaAustrian flagAnna StoRussian flagRustan Germanov----Flag of SloveniaMina MalkovichAustrian flagJacob Schubert
2013 Republic of Korea flagKim JainJapanese flagSachi AmmaAustrian flagAnna StoRussian flagDmitry Sharafnitov----Flag of SloveniaMina MalkovichAustrian flagJacob Schubert
2014 Flag of SloveniaMina MalkovichAustrian flagJacob SchubertJapanese flagHiroyo NoguchiGerman flagYang Heuer----Japanese flagHiroyo NoguchiCanadian flagSean McCall
2015 Flag of SloveniaMina MalkovichCzech flagAdam OndraJapanese flagHiroyo NoguchiRepublic of Korea flagJung Jung Gong----Republic of Korea flagKim JainCzech flagAdam Ondra
2016 Flag of SloveniaJanja GarnbretFlag of SloveniaDomen SkovichBritish flagShona CockseaJapanese flagTomoa Narasaki----Flag of SloveniaJanja GarnbretCanadian flagSean McCall
2017 Flag of SloveniaJanja GarnbretFrench flagRoman de GrandeBritish flagShona CockseaRepublic of Korea flagJung Jung Gong----Flag of SloveniaJanja GarnbretJapanese flagTomoa Narasaki
2018 Flag of SloveniaJanja GarnbretAustrian flagJacob SchubertJapanese flagNonakaFlag of SloveniaJerney Crider----Flag of SloveniaJanja GarnbretAustrian flagJacob Schubert

player

List players who have won or won top prizes in competitions.

Japanese player

woman


Boys


footnote

[How to use footnotes]
  1. ^ a b c d e f g h [1]
  2. ^ RECOGNISED SPORTS --IOC Official Website
  3. ^ Regarding the current rule text,INTERNATIONAL CLIMBING COMPETITIONS: Rules 2008-09, Japanese translation (translated by Kazuyuki Yamamoto)See
  4. ^ Major changes made to the IFSC Rules for 2008-2009 (Original PDF),Japanese commentary by Kazuyuki Yamamoto
  5. ^ However, in the qualifying round, each player may climb 2 routes or flush 2 routes instead of onsite.
  6. ^ Strictly speaking, the three results of "touching", "holding", and "holding and moving forward" are different.
  7. ^ To be precise, the height at which the bottom of the body does not exceed 3 m from the mat surface
  8. ^ From 2008, even if the time runs out for the final round, if it is climbing, you can continue the "last try".
  9. ^ There is no Japanese translation for "attempt", but "try" is the closest word commonly used by Japanese speakers.In the bouldering competition, multiple tries can be made, but each try is called an attempt.
  10. ^ According to the rules, only the referee's "OK" call is a requirement for completion.
  11. ^ 2008 yearsChallenge! Oita National Athletic MeetFrom then on, mountain competitions were limited to lead and bouldering.
  12. ^ Declaration of end of Japan tour
  13. ^ From 2008, it became a rule to bouldering in the first half of the season and lead in the second half of the season, so it is unlikely that all events will be held.ただしスピード競技は年間を通して行われるので、リードとスピードといった組み合わせの大会はあるHowever, speed competitions are held throughout the year, so there are competitions that combine lead and speed.
  14. ^ Lead World Cup Inzai Tournament Canceled
  15. ^ Official record by IFSC: 1998 WC Lead Men's Annual Ranking,Official record by IFSC: 2000 WC Lead Men's Annual Ranking
  16. ^ Official record by IFSC: 1998 WC Lead Men's Annual Ranking
  17. ^ Official record by IFSC: 2008 WC Composite Ranking Women,Official record by IFSC: 2009 WC Composite Ranking Women
  18. ^ Official record by IFSC: WC Bouldering Women's Annual Ranking:2009 ,2010
  19. ^ Official record by IFSC: 2009 Bouldering Women's World Rankings
  20. ^ [2]
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Tokyo Olympics(Tokyo Olympics)

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